On our journey through Norway, our wheels took us into Jotunheimen National Park. We turned off the main route and headed up the Leira valley to the Leirvassbu mountain lodge, where we parked. The lodge sits on the park boundary at the head of the valley and is one of the main trailheads for hikes in the area. Our goal was Kyrkja (2032 m) – a peak that looks modest on the map but, in reality, proved that in this range very little comes easy.
Kyrkja is one of the most striking summits in central Jotunheimen. Its name means ‘church’ – and for good reason. Seen from the valley, the sharp, steep profile looks like a church spire. It isn’t a technical climb, but the final section is steep and at times exposed, making the ascent of Kyrkja a proper mountain hike.
Ascent route
We set out from the parking area by Leirvassbu lodge, the first metres on a broad gravel track. This brought us to a turnoff for the waymarked hiking route JOT34, which leads toward the Olavsbu hut.
Once on JOT34, the going is easy at first. As we gain elevation, the landscape opens up – glaciers and big mountain massifs appear ahead, with surrounding peaks between roughly 2000 and 2400 m. The path is well marked and straightforward.
After skirting a lake and reaching the first broad saddle, the character of the route changes. Our line branches left here – an unmarked path heading straight for Kyrkja. The gradient kicks up and the path becomes fainter, but in good visibility the direction is obvious.
Approaching the next col below the summit, we cross small snowfields. These lingering patches often remain through summer and call for sure footing.
A trickier finish
At the last saddle the steepness of the final section fully reveals itself. The footpath gives way to rocky terrain, and we weave between big boulders and blocks. The route climbs in short zigzags. On the harder bits I carry Ibo in my arms; we’d underestimated this outing a little and hadn’t brought his hiking harness.
Unlike the earlier stretches, the final vertical metres are surprisingly exposed. Continuing with a dog without a harness would be an unnecessary risk, so I continue alone. Iva and Ibo wait a few metres below the top. Hands are needed now and then. Fortunately it’s dry with no snow, which suits me — we aren’t carrying any winter gear. Despite the difficulty, just below the summit I even met a few hikers with children around 10–12 years old.
On the summit
From the top, broad views open over Jotunheimen and down to Lake Kyrkjetønnet, which lies deep in the valley directly beneath the peak. With rocky ridges and distant glaciers in the mix, it’s one of those views that make all the effort worth it.
After a few minutes on the summit I turn back and retrace my steps to Iva and Ibo. Without Ibo’s harness, we have only two options in this tougher terrain — either carry him in our arms again, or reshuffle our pack and do what we’d already tried on the descent from Mount Magart: put Ibo in the backpack.
In the end, it proved a very practical solution. We take him out of the pack at the saddle where the trail levels out again.
Conclusion and recommendations
While the ascent of Kyrkja isn’t an extreme mountain climb, it shouldn’t be underestimated. The final stretch is steep and at times exposed, requiring a sure foot and confidence on rock. In poor weather the difficulty naturally increases, and in low visibility navigation can be an issue, as the last part of the route isn’t officially marked.
For hiking with a dog, we’d recommend this route more for medium to larger breeds that move more easily in rocky terrain. Even then, it’s best to carry a hiking harness or have another way to lift and secure the dog through the tougher sections.
When hiking with a dog in Jotunheimen National Park, follow the official rules. During the main season dogs must be on a leash to avoid disturbing wildlife and grazing herds. As always, respect nature, other visitors, and the principles of travelling in a protected area.
Key facts about Kyrkja and the hike
- Peak name: Kyrkja
- Elevation: 2032 m a.s.l.
- Range: Jotunheimen
- Trailhead: Leirvassbu lodge (Leira valley)
- Total distance (out and back): 8.6 km (4–5 hours)