We touched down in Nairobi, Kenya’s capital, en route from Vienna to Pemba in Mozambique. With just under a day to change planes, we’d sketched out a fairly ambitious plan before we arrived. We didn’t know the local logistics, plenty …
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Africa
From Tanzania’s Mafia Island to Mozambique’s Ibo and the Quirimbas, this is our corner of Africa on the quiet side.
Expect first-hand reports, practical notes on access and conditions, and ideas for travelers who prefer coastline, islands, and off‑grid routes over resort polish.
Mafia Island: first-hand experience of an island without the crowds
Introduction I ended up on Mafia Island in 2016 more or less by chance. I had originally been looking for flights to Zanzibar, which was increasingly popular at the time. But I was also starting to see negative reports about …
Ibo Island: a forgotten island in Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago
Our trip through the Quirimbas Archipelago began on Ibo Island, which we reached after a very arduous transfer from Pemba. When we finally climbed off the local boat—the so‑called chappa boat—at the small jetty, only a handful of kids were …
Through the jungle from Pemba to Ibo Island: a 14‑hour Mozambican adventure
Ibo Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago Ibo Island in the Quirimbas Archipelago in northern Mozambique remains well off the tourist trail. Getting here isn’t always straightforward—especially if you opt for the more adventurous overland route through the jungle from Pemba. …