After two intense weeks on the Altiplano we tell ourselves we’ve had enough of the cold, the wind, and the thin air. Our plan is simple: move lower, where it should be warmer, greener and, above all, a bit more comfortable. Sounds great, right? With that optimism we leave Uyuni and head southeast on Route 21 toward Tupiza.
The endless plains of the Altiplano slowly disappear behind us, deep valleys appear and the terrain takes on a reddish hue. From afar we are watched by the massive extinct volcano Cerro Chorolque, which, with an elevation of around 5,550 m a.s.l., dominates the surroundings and reminds us we are still in a harsh region.
The road mostly runs through dry, inhospitable country that doesn’t offer ideal conditions for walking a dog. On the other hand, it’s a wide and safe route and, if needed, you can stop practically anywhere off the road without risk. When planning your trip, be sure to check the weather forecast in advance.
We arrive in Tupiza after roughly two hours of driving and look forward to a bit of rest. We had read about the town as a western-style oasis surrounded by magnificent rock formations. Reality? Dust and wind ruled during our visit. The streets are full of people and cars, sidewalks are narrow and parking is almost impossible. For traveling with a dog this isn’t the most ideal environment — dog-walking in the very center is more of an adrenaline sport. If you’re traveling with a dog, we definitely recommend staying outside the center.
We try to find our way to the iconic rocks in Valle de los Machos. Maps show several options, but none of them actually exist. After half an hour of wandering we give up. Later we learn that recent flash floods swept away the trails and access roads. It’s a real shame — based on photos and reviews the area around Tupiza is full of beautiful spots for hikes and dog walks. From our experience we recommend checking trail passability in advance.
In the late afternoon I give it one more try and head on foot with Ibo into one of the canyons, but the wind and broken paths quickly put a stop to us again. In the end there’s only a single photo from Tupiza — a small proof that in better weather this place would have more potential.
We noticed a few small parks in town and this time there weren’t as many street dogs as elsewhere in Bolivia, which is a small plus when traveling with a dog. Finding dog-friendly accommodation wasn’t a problem either, even with a small garden — Ibo was very pleased.
Not every travel day is postcard-perfect. Sometimes we expect comfort and reality shows the exact opposite. But moments like these are part of travel — they remind us it’s an adventure with everything that comes with it. With mild disappointment but a good dose of hope we set off onward. Lower. To Tarija. Because Bolivia taught us one thing: appreciate what you have — it could always be worse.