From Uyuni to Tupiza: It Can Always Be Worse

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After two intense weeks on the Altiplano, we’ve had our fill of cold, wind, and thin air. The plan is simple: drop to a lower elevation where it’s warmer, greener, and hopefully a touch more comfortable. Sounds perfect, right? With that optimism, we roll out of Uyuni and head southeast on Route 21 toward Tupiza.

The Altiplano’s endless flats slowly fall away behind us; deep valleys take over and the earth turns red. On the horizon looms the hulking, extinct volcano Cerro Chorolque, around 5,550 m, both a landmark and a reminder that this is still a tough region.

The road mostly cuts through dry, unforgiving country—not exactly ideal for walking a dog. On the upside, it’s a wide, safe route, and you can pull off the road almost anywhere without risk if you need a break. Be sure to check the forecast in advance.

We reach Tupiza after about a two-hour drive, ready for a breather. We’d read about a western-style oasis ringed by dramatic rock formations. The reality? During our visit, dust and wind called the shots. Streets were packed with people and traffic, sidewalks were narrow, and parking was close to impossible. Not the best setup when you’re traveling with a dog—walking in the very center feels more like an adrenaline sport. If you’re traveling with a dog, we definitely recommend staying outside the center.

We try to find a way to the iconic rocks in Valle de los Machos. The maps show several options, yet none of them exist on the ground. After half an hour of wandering, we give up. Only later do we learn that recent flash floods wiped out the paths and access tracks. A real pity—photos and reviews suggest the Tupiza area is full of great hiking and dog-walking spots. Based on our experience, it’s worth checking that routes are actually passable before you set out.

Toward evening I give it one more shot and set off on foot with Ibo into one of the canyons, but the wind and broken trails quickly put a stop to it. In the end we come away with just a single photo from Tupiza—a small reminder that in better weather this place would have far more to offer.

Around town we did notice a few small parks, and for once there weren’t many stray dogs, unlike elsewhere in Bolivia—a small plus when you’re traveling with a dog. Finding dog-friendly accommodation wasn’t an issue either—we even found a place with a small garden, much to Ibo’s delight.

Not every travel day is postcard-perfect. Sometimes we expect comfort and reality serves up the opposite. But these moments are part of the journey—they remind us it’s an adventure, warts and all. With a touch of disappointment but plenty of hope, we move on. Lower. To Tarija. Because Bolivia has taught us one thing: appreciate what you’ve got—it can always be worse.