Another day of our road trip through Montenegro. Early in the morning I start the ascent to the country’s highest peak from the village of Vusanje – Zla Kolata. Iva wasn’t feeling well that day, so she stays at the hotel. The only company I have is our dog Ibo. I can already say that he handled the whole hike perfectly… but I’m getting ahead of myself.
Zla Kolata lies in the Prokletije mountain range, which offers serious peaks, numerous hiking trails and raw, at times even harsh nature. It’s exactly the kind of mountains where you quickly understand that you don’t come here just to “look around”, but that you must show respect.
Driving the car as high as possible
A long and demanding day awaits me, made harder by the strong summer sun. I therefore decide to drive the car as high as possible, as far as it will go. The route leading straight from the centre of the village very quickly changes from an asphalt road to a dirt track and gently climbs through the surrounding pastures. At roughly 1 250 m a.s.l. the road starts to rise more steeply and enters the forest.
Somewhere here I come across a place where the road is crossed by a small stream. The terrain is muddy and although the continuation of the road beyond the ford looks reasonable, I don’t dare attempt this section with our Škoda Superb. To proceed further you’d need at least a proper SUV. From there we continue on foot. Since I saw cars parked higher up during the ascent and didn’t encounter any no-entry signs, it can be assumed that driving up here is tolerated to some degree.
Shepherd’s hut, sun, warmth
After about an hour of climbing along the steep dirt road we arrive at a small local shepherd’s hut on the right. An advertising sign warns that you can buy local products and even chilled beer. We don’t stop, though. Ibo doesn’t like beer and I’m trying to gain altitude as quickly as possible before the sun completely melts us. It’s early morning, but you can already feel its rays warming the air around us.
A little past the shepherd’s hut the trail turns right, the climb eases for a while and the route weaves through smaller shrubs and at times uneven rocky ground to a nearby clearing called Bora. Here the trail splits again; we head right. The local hiking signage is of a very good standard – there are even signposts with destination names and estimated times to clearly show which way to continue to Zla Kolata.
From the clearing Bora the route continues as a narrow path that once again starts climbing into the surrounding rocky terrain. The ascent is steep and not very visible from below. This is probably the most difficult navigational section of the route. After overcoming it we get views into the valley beneath Zla Kolata. You can see the saddle Preslopit (2 039 m) on the border with Albania, which is our first objective, and there are also views of a large snowfield under the summit. I begin to suspect that the ascent from the saddle will bring further challenges.
Unexpected cool-down
Before reaching the saddle we pass a cave called Ledena Pećina (Ice Cave), which is right by the trail. It’s easy to peek inside. It offers a pleasant cool-down – literally cold air flows from its depths. On this summer day it’s a bonus that’s hard to leave.
At the Preslopit saddle we meet a relatively larger number of hiking groups. Ibo and I are the only ones who arrived from the Montenegrin side. We take a short break and a small refreshment. I consider whether to continue or not. After all, we still have about 500 metres of elevation to gain and the views clearly indicate the terrain will be a bit more demanding than up to now. Curiosity wins in the end. We have a pretty good time, so we go for it.
Exposed terrain, snow and the dog as a bag
The route initially goes along the right side of the cirque descending from the summit, but very quickly turns and crosses into its left side. This sensibly bypasses the snowfield that covers the entire cirque. We are lucky – apart from a few short sections we completely avoid the snow. We don’t have any winter gear like crampons or an ice axe, so that pleases us.
The route then continues over rock slabs and traverses above the snowfield in a steep ascent. The terrain is slightly exposed. In some places I put Ibo on a leash. As if he understands the difficulty of the terrain – he is very disciplined and stays close to me most of the time. As we climb, we come across a few sections where I have to carry him in my arms. In these situations his hiking harness is priceless. I can grab it like a bag, carry him and, without unnecessary bending, place him back on a safe spot.
Final metres
After a bit of adrenaline we finally reach the saddle Prevoj Kolata, which lies between the peaks Dobra Kolata and Zla Kolata at about 2 400 m a.s.l. The saddle is wide and a large part is covered in snow. We have less than 150 vertical metres left to climb, so we get on with it.
The last steps are tiring, but this struggle is rewarded with magnificent views. Ahead of us opens the view to the summit Kolata e Mirë / Dobra Kolata (2 528 m a.s.l.) and also to the peak Maja e Kollatës (2 556 m), which already lies on Albanian soil. In the distance you can see the snow-covered hills of Albania and the surrounding landscape looks raw yet incredibly pristine.
At the summit I’m alone, just with the dog. We allow ourselves a longer rest here. Shortly before our departure a group of Croatian hikers arrives. We exchange a few words and then head back to the car along the same route. It’s beautiful here, but it’s time to set off – we still have a long way back.
We again overcome the more demanding section around the snowfield, but from the Preslopit saddle we proceed briskly.
Reward at the end Grlja
Instead of a chilled beer at the local shepherd’s hut I decide to visit the local restaurant Restoran Grlja on the edge of the village of Vusanje. It’s a place visited by tourists, but it was a good choice – quick service, a dog-friendly approach and surroundings full of beautiful views.
The cherry on top is the nearby waterfall Vodopad Grlja. If you decide to visit it, be sure to keep your dog on a leash. A fall into the waterfall would undoubtedly have fatal consequences.
With a good feeling after a perfect hike and already with full stomachs we get into the car and head back to our accommodation in the town of Andrijevica. What a great day we’ve had!?
Facts about the peak Zla Kolata and the ascent
- Peak: Zla Kolata
- Elevation: 2 534 m a.s.l. (the highest point of Montenegro)
- Mountain range: Prokletije
- Trailhead: village Vusanje
- Elevation gain: approximately 1 500 – 1 600 m (depending on parking location)
- Route length: approx. 14 – 16 km (round trip)
- Ascent time: 6 – 8 hours (without long breaks)
- Difficulty: demanding mountain hike, at times exposed terrain; with a dog only if in good fitness and with experience