After a day spent on the endless Uyuni salt flat we set off in the morning from our hotel near the village of Coqueza for another adventure. Our goal is to get as close as possible by car to the Tunupa volcano and then continue on foot up to the crater.
Apparently nobody does this here
Having learned from yesterday, we confidently stop at the information center right in the village of Coqueza to ask what the drive to the volcano will cost. The older woman, however, doesn’t know English and we don’t know Spanish. She doesn’t understand us and tries to offer a complete package with a guide, food and transport to the foot of the volcano. Later we understand that what we asked for simply isn’t offered – people don’t usually go to Tunupa on their own.
We therefore drive on to the town of Tahua. According to the map, a dirt track should lead upward from the village. We find it without problems, but right at the start a locked gate stops us. There’s no way around it.
We return to the village and, together with the locals, set out to look for someone who could help us. After a while we find him – he opens the gate for us and we can continue. We pay an entrance fee of about five euros.
Off-road by car to an altitude of 4750 m a.s.l.
The road initially gains altitude only slowly, but the closer we get to the volcano the more demanding the sections become. Fortunately our Hilux is a proper 4×4, so we dare to try. In some passages we also use low-range gear. Then the vehicle turns into a small tank that overcomes every obstacle here. The views of the Uyuni salt flat become more and more breathtaking with every meter.
Despite my skepticism we reach by car up to approximately 4750 m a.s.l., about 150 vertical meters above the official end of the road. Along the way we pass a campsite, which is, by the way, in quite a neglected state.
Trek up to 5150 m a.s.l.
From the car we continue on foot only – a steep trek over rocky scree awaits us. A worn path leads up to the ridge in a gentle ascent. It’s not so easy along the ridge, though. At this altitude the air is considerably thin and we have to take frequent breaks. The views are indescribable; we take photos like crazy.
Just below the crater the terrain becomes more challenging and disorienting. We split up – Braňo takes a break since the terrain doesn’t suit him that much. I can’t resist and continue toward the crater. For a while I lose the path, but after a short search I’m back on the right route. Short switchbacks lead all the way to the edge of Tunupa’s crater.
Views worth the effort
The last meters take forever, but success arrives. I reach the crater and at the same time set a new altitude record for myself – I’ve never stood this high before. Every movement here costs a lot of energy; breath is gone after a few steps.
Despite that I take out the drone and enjoy and film the spectacular views. Behind me the endless whiteness of Salar de Uyuni, in front of me the massive crater of the sacred mountain Tunupa. A perfect reward.
Quick descent and a well-deserved reward
Unlike the ascent, the descent goes quickly. We are back at the car before dark, we celebrate a successful trip and treat ourselves to a well-deserved cold drink. We didn’t meet anyone during the hike, which made it even more exclusive.
Feeling great, we return along the same road to Tahua and then to the hotel.
Facts about Tunupa Volcano
- Height: approximately 5 321 m a.s.l.
- Location: northern edge of the salt flat Salar de Uyuni
- Type: stratovolcano (long inactive)
- Sacred significance: in Aymara mythology Tunupa is considered the spiritual guardian of the region
- Legends: according to one of them, the salt flats are the tears of Tunupa
- Tourist significance: panoramic views of Salar de Uyuni, high-altitude trekking, colorful rock layers in the crater
- Trailheads: most commonly Coqueza or Tahua