I’d heard about Tenaru Falls even before flying to the Solomon Islands. Information was scarce, the falls weren’t marked on the maps available at the time, and mentions popped up only occasionally on a few travel forums. Which, of course, made them even more tempting. Brano and I agreed in advance we’d try to reach them right at the start of our stay.
The plan was simple: fly from Bali via Papua New Guinea to the capital, Honiara, spend just under two days there and use the stopover to reach the falls. Fate, however, had other ideas from the outset. Our flight was cancelled and we eventually reached the Solomons via Singapore, more than a day late.
When we finally landed, there was no time left for the waterfall outing. We had a domestic flight from Honiara to the island of Santa Isabel to catch. It seemed Tenaru Falls would have to wait.
What didn’t work out at the beginning came around later. As we were moving on from Santa Isabel to the island of Ghizo, we had another connection through Honiara. And what happened? Our flight to Ghizo was cancelled due to a technical issue.
The next flight wasn’t until the following day. Brano and I agreed it’s better to lose a day than fly over these islands in a faulty plane. Decision made — Tenaru Falls were getting a second chance.
After all, Honiara doesn’t offer a lot. Crowded, dusty roads, a handful of acceptable hotels and a few restaurants. Honestly — there aren’t many better ways to fill a few hours than a trip to a waterfall.
That evening we called a resort that, according to the map, sat closest to where the falls should be. Luck was on our side — an English-speaking gentleman picked up and, after hearing our situation, offered a plan: he’d collect us from our hotel before 6:00, drive us to the resort, where a local guide would take us to the falls; afterwards he’d return us to Honiara airport — plenty of time to make our flight to Ghizo.
It sounded almost too good to be true — but of course we said yes. We were up for whatever adventure the day would bring.
Into the jungle
Morning unfolded exactly as promised. At dawn, a jeep and driver were waiting outside the hotel. We climbed in, excited for what the day might hold.
The roads were still almost empty. We passed the local market and left the city behind. After a few minutes we turned off the main road and climbed steeply into the jungle.
During the drive we learned our driver was also the owner of the resort we were heading to. He willingly shared his story and the story of the land we were crossing. It turned out he owned a sizeable tract here — by local standards, a wealthy man.
After about an hour, a different world opened up ahead. Parangiju Inland Mountain Lodge sat at the foot of a hill, surrounded by endless jungle. Below us stretched a valley dominated by the Lungga River. On the horizon, Honiara was visible in the distance — the place we’d left barely an hour earlier.
Hiking to the falls
The owner teamed us up with a local guide. From there, we continued on foot.
First we pushed along a muddy path up a steep jungle slope. Humid air, dense vegetation, slippery ground. Later we dropped straight to the bed of the Tenaru River and followed it upstream towards our goal.
We reached the point where the Tenaru River meets a side tributary. The Tenaru Falls are on that tributary. From here it was just a few minutes’ walk upstream along the smaller stream.
Tenaru Falls
We made it. The falls appeared suddenly right in front of us, almost leaping out of the jungle. We were spellbound by the unexpected beauty of the place. The feeling was even stronger because it was just us and our guide — no tourists, no noise of the outside world.
In a single, powerful drop, the water plunges roughly 60 meters. The roar is deafening, the air thick with spray, the energy of the falling water simply overwhelming.
We didn’t hesitate — time for a swim. It’s easy to swim right up to the base of the cascade, but standing directly under the flow is another story. The force is so intense it stings your back and shoulders.
The water was cold, but in the tropics that hardly mattered. Seeing the waterfall from below, feeling its force and having it all to ourselves was one of the standout moments of our trip.
Drone over the jungle
We left reluctantly, but our plane was due soon and we still had a long way back through the jungle.
Before heading out, we launched the drone. From above it’s obvious why this place is so little known: a huge waterfall perfectly hidden in the depths of sprawling jungle. Without a guide, we’d likely have searched in vain.
Through jungle, over broken bridges, in mud and with mosquitoes for company, we made our way back to the car.
Back to reality
The resort owner greeted us with a cold beer. He was a genuinely cool guy — he knew exactly what to do, and when, to give us the best possible experience. We lingered a moment longer to soak up the calm and the views, then finally hit the road. He kindly drove us back as well.
On the way we explained we’d like to rinse off so we wouldn’t board the plane caked in mud. He pulled over at the Tenaru River. A quick freshen up — more a practical wash than a swim. With that, the day’s minor “problems” were solved, and we continued to the airport.
Our flight left on time, we made it easily, and from the window we admired beautiful views of these unique islands.
Final thoughts
If you ever find yourself in Honiara, don’t skip a trip to Tenaru Falls. The visit itself takes roughly half a day, and if you like, you can extend it with more time in the surrounding jungle or a visit to nearby caves.
Tenaru Falls aren’t something you’ll find on every tourist map. That’s precisely the appeal — the wildness, the remoteness and the feeling, however brief, that you’re part of something genuinely untouched.