I learned about Tenaru Falls even before arriving on the Solomon Islands. Information was minimal, the falls weren’t marked on the maps available at the time, and mentions of them appeared only sporadically on some travel forums. That actually made them even more enticing. Bran and I had already agreed in advance that we’d try to find them right at the start of our stay.
The plan was clear – fly from Bali via Papua New Guinea to the capital Honiara, spend just under two days there and use that stop to go to the falls. Fate, however, reshuffled the cards a bit at the very beginning. Our flight was cancelled, and we eventually reached the Solomon Islands via a detour through Singapore with more than a day’s delay.
After arrival there simply wasn’t time left for a trip to the falls. We had a domestic flight from Honiara to Santa Isabel ahead of us. It seemed Tenaru Falls would have to wait.
What fate didn’t grant us at the start, it allowed later. When we were moving from Santa Isabel to Ghizo, we had a stopover in Honiara again. And what happened? Our flight to Ghizo was cancelled due to technical problems.
The next connection wasn’t due to fly until the following day. Bran and I said it’s better to lose one day than to fly over these islands in a broken plane. The decision was clear – Tenaru Falls get a second chance.
After all, Honiara doesn’t offer much. Crowded dusty roads, a few acceptable hotels and several restaurants. Honestly – there aren’t many things here that would entertain you for a few hours more than a trip to the falls.
That evening we contact the resort that, according to the map, is probably the closest to the area where the falls should be. And we’re lucky – an English-speaking gentleman answers the phone and after hearing our situation he offers the following plan: early in the morning (before 6:00) I’ll pick you up at the hotel, take you to our resort and from there our guide will lead you to the falls. Then I’ll take you back to Honiara to the airport – we’ll make it, don’t worry, you won’t miss the flight to Ghizo.
It sounds almost too good to be true. Of course we agree. We’re ready for any adventure.
Journey into the jungle
And indeed, the morning was exactly as the voice on the phone had promised. Early in the morning a jeep with a driver is waiting for us at the hotel. We get in and look forward to what the day will bring.
In the morning the roads are still almost empty. We pass the local market and gradually leave the town. After a few minutes we leave the main road and climb steeply into the jungle.
During the drive we learn that our driver is also the owner of the resort we’re heading to. He willingly tells us his story and the story of the country we’re passing through. Gradually we find out he owns a sizeable piece of land in the area – in local terms he’s practically a wealthy man.
After about an hour’s drive a completely different world opens before us. Parangiju Inland Mountain Lodge is located at the foot of a hill and endless jungle surrounds it. Below us spreads a valley dominated by the Lungga River. On the horizon Honiara is visible in the distance – that’s where we set off from just an hour ago.
On foot to the falls
The resort owner assigns a local guide to our party. From there we continue on foot.
At first we push through the steep jungle along a muddy path. Damp, dense vegetation, slippery terrain. Later we descend directly to the bed of the Tenaru River and continue upstream toward our destination.
We arrive at a place where the Tenaru River joins a side tributary. The Tenaru Falls are located on that tributary. From this spot it’s only a few minutes’ walk upstream along the smaller tributary.
Tenaru Falls
We’re here! The falls suddenly appear right in front of us, literally springing out of the surrounding jungle. We’re enchanted by the unexpected beauty of the place. The experience is even stronger because, apart from our guide, there is no one else here. No tourists, no noise of civilization.
The water plunges in a single powerful drop from a height of about 60 meters. The roar is deafening, the air is full of spray and the energy of the falling water is literally overwhelming.
We don’t hesitate and go for a swim. You can easily swim right under the waterfall, but standing directly under the flow isn’t as fun. The force of the water is so intense that you feel a sharp stinging on your back and shoulders.
The water was cold, but in the tropical climate that didn’t matter at all. Seeing the waterfall from below, feeling its power and being completely alone there was one of the most powerful moments of our entire trip.
Drone over the jungle
We very reluctantly leave this place, but our plane is due to fly soon and we still have a long journey back through the jungle.
Before leaving we send the drone up. From a bird’s-eye view it’s clear why this place is so little known. The huge waterfall is perfectly hidden within the depths of the vast jungle. Without a guide we would probably have searched for it in vain.
Through the jungle, broken bridges, mud and accompanied by mosquitoes we return back to the car.
Back to reality
The resort owner greets us with a cold beer. He was a really cool guy – he knew exactly what and when to do to give us the best possible experience from this place. We savor the peace and the views of the surrounding countryside for a while longer, but eventually we weigh anchor. The owner willingly drives us back as well.
On the way back we explain to him that we’d like to wash off a bit so we don’t board the plane completely covered in mud. So he stops at the Tenaru River. A quick refresh – more of a practical wash. That solved all the “problems” this day had presented us, and we continue toward the airport.
In the end our plane departs on time, we catch it without problems and, full of experiences, we admire the beautiful views of these unique islands from aboard.
Conclusion
If you ever find yourself in Honiara, don’t miss a trip to Tenaru Falls. The visit itself takes about half a day and, if desired, the experience can be extended with further exploration of the surrounding jungle or a visit to nearby caves.
Tenaru Falls is a place you won’t find on every tourist map. That’s precisely where its charm lies – wildness, remoteness and the feeling that for a moment you are part of something truly untouched.