We spend only two nights in the resort town of San Pedro de Atacama, so we don’t have much time for time-consuming activities. Therefore we choose relatively nearby destinations. The first of these is Laguna Chaxa. Honestly – at first I was skeptical. I expected an overpriced attraction full of tourists. Fortunately, reality was completely different.
Laguna Chaxa
Laguna Chaxa is one of the sectors of the Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos – a national reserve that protects the unique lagoons and birdlife in the Salar de Atacama area. It is an officially accessible place with a short walking circuit, viewpoints and clearly marked trails to minimize disturbance to the sensitive ecosystem.
A pleasant surprise right from the start
We arrived at the site via a dusty, unpaved road crossing the Salar de Atacama. At the entrance there was a paid admission, information boards and a local guide. Despite our concerns, there were no crowds here – quite the opposite.
We were practically alone here and the whole place felt calm and authentic. We did the first part of the circuit with a guide who led us and talked about the formation of the lagoon, the flamingos and the importance of this area for the entire Salar de Atacama. The commentary was entirely in Spanish, but we left with a very pleasant feeling of how much of it we actually understood.
It’s true that we were also helped in understanding the context by the information panels full of drawings and illustrations that were placed along the route. The guide clearly put a bit of himself into the commentary – it wasn’t a learned monologue but the storytelling of someone who really cares about this place. Thanks to that, the visit felt much more personal than typical ‘fast tourism’ and we learned a lot not only about the flamingos but also about how the Salar de Atacama itself functions.
Second part of the circuit: silence, salt and ponds
The second part of our excursion consisted of a short independent walk around the circuit between the individual ponds. It is only here that one fully realizes where they actually are. All the time we walk on salt – on a surface that at first glance appears completely dead.
At first glance it’s clear that we are in an extreme environment. There is essentially no soil here – only rocks and a surface covered by a layer of salt. Nothing grows here, no greenery, no trees. And yet this place is full of life.
The lagoon consists of several shallow ponds with salty, mineral-rich water. These create ideal conditions for tiny organisms that are the basis of the local food chain.
Why flamingos are pink
Laguna Chaxa is home to flamingos, which can be observed here in their natural habitat. In the lagoon’s salty water they consume tiny creatures with the amusing name „sea monkeys“ (a type of small crustaceans). These contain carotenoids – the same substances that color carrots orange.
And it is precisely because of them that flamingos have their typical pink color. So yes – now you know why flamingos are so pink.
Photographing flamingos: patience is key
Flamingos are generally shy birds. With normal approaches from the shore you usually won’t get closer than about 100 meters. In the Laguna Chaxa area, however, I noticed that they are somewhat more accustomed to human movement and under ideal conditions it’s possible to get a little closer.
However, you shouldn’t have exaggerated expectations – you certainly won’t do a selfie with a flamingo here. During our visit they seemed less shy than usual, and thanks to that I managed to capture a few really nice shots.
Laguna Chaxa from a bird’s perspective
Only from above does it fully emerge how exceptional this place is. From a drone, Laguna Chaxa and its surroundings play with unbelievable colors – from white salt through ochre and pink shades to dark mineral arms of water winding across the salar.
From above it’s beautiful to see the contrast between the ‘dead’ landscape and the subtle traces of life that one from the ground would often not even notice.
Is Laguna Chaxa worth a visit?
Definitely yes. For me Laguna Chaxa was not a tourist trap, but a calm and visually powerful stop that complements a visit to San Pedro de Atacama perfectly. A reasonable price, quality commentary and the possibility to see flamingos in their natural environment make this place an ideal short stop that doesn’t take much time but offers a strong experience and a unique view of life in one of the most extreme environments on Earth.
Practical information for visiting Laguna Chaxa
- Duration of the excursion: approximately 1 hour (guide + independent circuit)
- Distance from San Pedro de Atacama: approximately 60 km
- Access: paved road, then a dusty, unpaved road across the Salar de Atacama (passable by a regular car)
- Facilities: toilets, small souvenir shop
- Parking: spacious parking lot right by the entrance
- Visit organization: paid admission, introductory briefing with a guide in Spanish