On the way back from the Makarska Riviera to Bratislava, we decided to liven up the journey home. We’d heard about the waterfalls on the River Una in Una National Park in Bosnia and Herzegovina more than once, but had never had time to stop.
What had we heard? That it’s a smaller—perhaps even lovelier—and above all calmer take on the Plitvice Lakes. Fewer tourists, less bustle, more nature.
The decision came quickly—we’d stop. And with our dog Ibo along, it felt like the perfect chance to turn a practical stop into a pleasant one.
Martin Brod – the gateway to the waterfalls
Our route leads to a small village on the Bosnia and Herzegovina–Croatia border called Martin Brod, one of the entry points to Una National Park. There are several places to park right in the village, though they’re all fairly small lots.
When we visited, there were very few people around. On busier days, parking can be tricky.
A short walk from the parking area there’s a small bridge for pedestrians and cyclists over the River Una. Even from here you get lovely views of the first cascades.
We pay the entrance fee and set off for a short walk around the park. Since we’re in a national park and heading into unfamiliar terrain, Ibo spends almost the entire time on a leash.
Veliki vodopad on the River Una
The path stays close to the River Una. On the right we occasionally see other visitors picnicking by the water. After a few minutes we reach the star attraction of this part of the park—the Veliki vodopad cascade system on the Una.
It’s a genuinely picturesque spot. Several wooden walkways have been built, allowing you to reach places with uninterrupted views of the network of cascades and smaller falls.
Aside from us there are only a handful of visitors. The atmosphere is calm, without crowds or noise. As for Ibo, the waterfalls are of course lost on him—he’s far more interested in scent-marking trees than natural wonders.
Interested in this destination? Would you like to visit it with your dog? Check the entry requirements directly in BorderCooler®.
To the Bučnica mill and back
After a few minutes at the falls we continue upstream toward the Bučnica mill. The route threads between local houses. Some offer rooms; others have small souvenir stalls.
Everything feels low-key and modest. There’s no hard sell, no one pushing anything. There are several route options and loops around here, but we turn around at the mill and head back to the car—we still have a long drive home ahead of us.
Reluctantly, after about an hour here we get back in the car and continue our journey home.
Is it worth the stop?
If you’re passing through, it’s well worth stopping. The waterfalls on the River Una are ideal for a short break on a long drive: beautiful scenery, a quieter atmosphere than the better-known spots, and a chance to let the dog stretch their legs in a genuinely interesting place.
For us, it was a pleasant, easy stop that broke up the monotony of the drive home and showed that lesser-known places can pleasantly surprise.
Facts about the Una Waterfalls
- The River Una rises in Croatia near the village of Donja Suvaja and is about 212 kilometers long. Most of its course runs through Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- Una National Park was established in 2008 and covers roughly 19,800 hectares in the northwest of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- The park lies within the Dinaric Alps and includes the upper course of the River Una and its tributary, the Unac.
- Veliki vodopad in Martin Brod reaches a height of roughly 20 to 25 meters and ranks among the park’s most distinctive waterfalls.
- The area is defined by travertine barriers and cascades formed by limestone deposits from exceptionally clear water.
- Una National Park is among the region’s less-visited protected areas; it receives tens of thousands of visitors annually—far fewer than the Plitvice Lakes.
- Beyond the waterfalls, the park offers rafting, kayaking, fishing, and hiking in a relatively well-preserved natural setting.