After a stroll in the Belianske Tatras a few days earlier, it was time for an airier outing in the heart of the High Tatras. We set our sights on Kresaný roh, which rises above Veľká studená dolina.
We start our hike in Starý Smokovec. For convenience, we buy a ticket for the funicular, which takes us up to Hrebienok in about 10 minutes. You could walk it, of course, but that would just waste time and energy. From Hrebienok we first follow the red waymarks, then from the junction above Rainerova chata switch to the blue trail and head into Veľká studená dolina. At a place called Brána, where the blue trail crosses a small bridge to the left side of the valley and then climbs steeply, we leave the marked path and continue along the left bank of the stream on the valley floor. The stream eventually disappears into the ground, but we stick to our line toward the gully between Rovienková veža and Kresaný roh. The approach up the valley is pleasant, our pace brisk, spirits high, and the weather on our side.
The final metres to the saddle are, naturally, fairly steep, but the ground is firm and the rock dry. Before long we step into Rovienkové sedlo. Views open into the Rovienky Valley; on this side the ridge drops steeply. To cross the ridge, I’d recommend the Malý Závrat saddle instead. Looking at the next stretch along the crest, it’s clear the easy hiking is behind us. The terrain shifts as we gain height, and with it the exposure.
The last stretch follows an airy, exposed ridge to the summit. Movement is occasionally more technical, but there’s always a safe line to be found.
We reach the top at last, rewarded with beautiful views of the Javorové štíty and, in the background, the Ľadové štíty. I sit on the summit, gaze into Veľká studená dolina spread out below, and feel simply content. It’s for moments like these that it’s worth heading this high. The summit isn’t very spacious and many parts are distinctly exposed. There are four of us up here, which feels about right for the space. After a good while soaking up the energy of the surrounding peaks, we pack up and retrace our steps.
The descent passes relatively quickly. Without any real complications we drop back into the valley and later down to Hrebienok. Another successful outing in my favourite range is behind me, and the feeling of contentment is exactly what a good day in the mountains should bring.