Mostar was the first city in Bosnia and Herzegovina that I got to know in my youth. It immediately captured my heart with its uniqueness, turbulent history and mix of cultures and religions that you feel at every turn. Worth mentioning is the breathtaking approach from the north through the Neretva River canyon – a scenery that alone is worth a stop.
So it was no surprise that when, during our Balkan road trip in summer 2023, we were passing from Montenegro to Croatia, Mostar was the obvious choice for an overnight stay. Iva hadn’t known the city yet, but she had somewhat dreamed about it. Maybe it was also because of the slightly mystical image of the Stari Most that used to hang in my room.
We arrived in Mostar with our dog Ibo — and were curious how this iconic city would suit our dog.
Accommodation in Mostar with a dog: Villa Floris in Podhum
We chose accommodation in the Podhum district. Specifically it was Villa Floris — a simple, clean and modern place that was officially dog friendly.
It even had a nice little garden. Paradoxically, however, dog walking was forbidden in that very garden. So we always just walked through it quickly and, across a nearby stream, headed straight into the residential part of the town, where there were plenty of places to walk the dog.
The advantage was that the town center was within walking distance. The car stayed parked and we moved to the historic core comfortably on foot.
Short trek to Hum and the Millennial Cross
From the Podhum district you can also undertake a short but interesting ascent to Mount Hum, which towers above the town. Here is the Millennial Cross — one of Mostar’s modern symbols, visible from almost every corner of the city.
The trek isn’t long, but in summer months it can be physically demanding due to high temperatures and minimal shade. We recommend setting out early in the morning or in the evening and bringing plenty of water — also for the dog.
The views from the top of Hum are worth it. Below you stretches the whole of Mostar, the Neretva River winds through the town and in the distance you can see the surrounding hills of Herzegovina. If you’re staying in Podhum while in Mostar, it’s a very pleasant addition to your stay without the need to travel by car.
Evening strolls around the town
Mostar is one of the warmest cities in the region and summer temperatures here easily exceed 35 °C. That’s why we left the main exploring for the evening.
In busier parts of town we always had Ibo on a leash. In principle we could get him almost everywhere — whether into a restaurant or into one of the many little shops lining the streets of the old town. Souvenirs, tobacco, ice cream, clothing — shop after shop and the atmosphere is lively but not unpleasant.
Even though we visited Mostar during the tourist season, there weren’t so many people in the streets that moving around with a dog was uncomfortable. The largest concentration of tourists was, naturally, at the Stari Most.
Stari Most and the Neretva River
We took a few quick photos on the bridge and then moved to less busy streets. After all, the bridge itself is more interesting for people than for a dog.
Stari Most is undoubtedly the symbol of the town. The 16th-century stone arch, destroyed during the war and rebuilt, now stands as a symbol of renewal.
For a dog the ascent onto the bridge can be slightly challenging — the stone blocks are smooth and in places slippery. We recommend extra caution.
Ibo enjoyed being under the bridge much more, right by the Neretva River. He found his spot there — and of course managed to have a swim. If you plan a similar experience, I recommend finding quieter banks. The river is fairly swift in most places and certainly not safe everywhere for a dog to swim.
Dinner with a view of the bridge
The highlight of the evening was dinner at one of the restaurants with a direct view of Stari Most. The waiter immediately saw that we had a dog and seated us in a quieter part of the terrace — with a perfect view of the river and the bridge.
Simple but tasty Balkan-style food complemented by quality local wine put a pleasant finishing touch on the evening. For Ibo the terrace was calmer than the busy streets. Now and then a cat would catch his attention, but tired from the day he quickly gave up and relaxed.
Morning over Mostar
In the morning we allowed ourselves a longer sleep and had breakfast right on the rooftop terrace of our accommodation. A view opened up of the more modern part of the city — a contrast to the historic core.
After breakfast I couldn’t resist and flew the drone. I didn’t have any aerial footage of Mostar yet, so it was the perfect time to fix that.
Mostar with a dog: is it possible?
Mostar is clearly an icon of the region and has a unique atmosphere. It may not be a completely typical destination for traveling with a dog, but it can be managed without major complications.
If you plan walks outside the hottest hours, respect the bustle of the tourist center and give the dog enough rest, everyone will enjoy Mostar.
For me it was a return to the city that once captured my heart. This time, however, we experienced it differently — calmer, slower and with Ibo at our side.