After a strenuous transfer from Laguna Salada we sit contentedly in the warmth of the spacious dining room at our accommodation in the town of Quetena Chico. Just a few hours earlier this space was warmed by sunlight; now, on the cold evening, a small stove in the corner of the room takes care of it.
We’re not here by accident. Since my first visit to Altiplan I’ve been drawn to the nearby volcano Uturuncu – specifically the access road that climbs here to an impressive altitude of almost 5 800 m n. m.
The owner of the accommodation quickly figured out our plans to get to Uturuncu. He immediately warned us that for such a trip we need a local guide. We’re stubborn, though, and believe we could handle this adventure ourselves. I’ve studied maps and satellite images of the route over the past months almost by heart. The only question left is: is there a gate or a ramp on the route that cannot be bypassed?
Searching for answers
I take advantage of the fact that we have Braňo’s Starlink with us, and I search the internet for any current information about the condition and passability of the road. After a longer search a recently published video by a couple from Germany who decided to do the whole route on foot finally settles everything. At the end of it one of them speaks to the viewers while sitting directly on the ramp.
It’s decided. We need a guide. The chance that the ramp will be locked and unavoidable is too great to risk it.
In life you get what… you negotiate!
The evening continues with bargaining with the local guide. It proves to be a rather lengthy process, not only because of the price but also because of the language barrier. At the same time it is clear that the guide is very aware of one thing – without the key to the ramp we will probably not be able to carry out our goal.
On the other hand it is also clear that he doesn’t want to miss out on at least some business. Perhaps for that reason our negotiation finally settled at 300 BOB. The agreement is simple: he will secure access through the ramp, we will drive up in our own car and he will just ride along.
Morning start and first complications
In the morning we set off right after breakfast. A morning frost still rules outside. At the start of the route we cross several frozen fords. Sometimes the ice holds, other times we break through, but the car handles everything with ease.
After a few kilometers, however, I notice that our brakes almost stop working. For a moment it honestly scares me – we’ll definitely need them on the way back down. It turns out in the end that the problem is only temporary and was probably caused by water from the fords that got into the brake system. After a while the brakes return to normal and we can continue.
The ramp
The road at the start rises only gently. That changes after the first 15 kilometers, where it begins to climb more steeply. It is in this section that we encounter the feared ramp. It is positioned sensibly – so that it cannot be bypassed.
The guide gets out of the car saying he will unlock it. I send Braňo after him to “help”. In reality he is to find out whether the ramp is really locked. After a minute they both return to the car and Braňo comments on the situation with one sentence:
“Of course it was unlocked.”
We continue on, knowing that we have just needlessly lost 300 BOB.
The road to Uturuncu and its origin
The road to Uturuncu was built in connection with sulfur mining that took place here in the past. Along the route the remains of miners’ accommodations and technical infrastructure are still visible. Commercial mining, however, never developed here on a long-term basis – the extreme conditions, altitude and logistical difficulty were simply too great.
The road, however, remained intact and for many years was considered the highest road in the world accessible by car.
The highest point you can reach here by car
As the altitude increases, the character of the climb changes as well. For most of the remaining route we go only in first, at most second gear. In some bends reduction is also needed. The road condition is relatively good, but don’t attempt this without a proper vehicle with 4×4.
The higher we go, the more often snow appears on the road – fortunately it’s nothing dramatic, more like old leftovers from previous snowfalls.
Everything goes relatively smoothly up to an altitude of 5 582 m n. m., where we encounter significant erosion damage. The road here is interrupted by a deep gully, probably created by rainwater or melting snow. Similar damage is visible on at least two other higher sections.
Although the road officially continues up to almost 5 800 m n. m., it is clear that we won’t be able to go further today. Our guide warned us about this place in advance – this is the current maximum you can reach by car.
A reward in the form of views
It would be wonderful to get even higher, but even so we are rewarded with stunning views of the endless Altiplano. In the distance the lagoons of southern Bolivia are visible, and around us there is absolute silence. We are warmed by a good feeling, but also by the sun’s rays, which have gained strength in the meantime.
Even though we had to stop earlier, by car we reached higher than most people get. The car did not let us down even at this extreme altitude.
The summits of Uturuncu from above
We take out drones and try to capture this landscape from a bird’s-eye perspective. We have ideal flying conditions and our drones reach heights of around 6 000 m n. m. – probably the highest they’ve ever been.
From above the whole structure of the volcano is beautifully visible. The main summit of Uturuncu reaches 6 008 m n. m., the secondary one about 5 940 m n. m. Between them a road is clearly readable, which originally led up to the saddle at almost 5 800 m n. m.
A short stop and the return
We spend only a few minutes under the slopes of this imposing volcano. Braňo’s stay in Bolivia is slowly coming to an end and Iva, whom we left with Ibo at the accommodation, is – also due to health problems – fed up with the harsh conditions we’ve been facing for the last two weeks.
It’s time to turn the car around and head back. First down from Uturuncu, then out of Eduardo Avaroa National Park and finally into the civilization of the town of Uyuni.