After visiting lagoons in the Salar de Atacama we head back toward the town of San Pedro de Atacama. Our second stop of the day is one of the best-known attractions in the area – Valle de la Luna. The name itself already suggests we are in a landscape that bears little resemblance to Earth.
Basic information about Valle de la Luna
Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley) is located just a few kilometers from San Pedro de Atacama and is part of the Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos. The area is known for its extremely dry climate, wind- and salt-driven erosion, and a landscape whose shapes and colors resemble the surface of the Moon.
The valley is open to the public and most sites can be visited from the comfort of your car. For those who want to walk, there are also short walking loops leading to viewpoints and rock formations.
Entering the lunar landscape
We arrive at the main entrance to Valle de la Luna, where an entrance fee is charged. Everything works simply here – we have our tickets arranged online and at the entrance we just show the QR code on our phone. An employee scans it and lets us through. We receive basic instructions regarding nature protection and our safety, and they give us a map of the route with the individual stops.
We enter a road that is meant to lead us to something we don’t yet have a clear idea of. The name hints at something “lunar”, but we’re still curious how a place seemingly devoid of life can become a tourist attraction.
After about a kilometer it becomes clear there is much to see. Sand dunes begin to appear around us, strange lines in the landscape and the first bizarrely shaped rock formations that look completely unearthly.
We gradually pass the individual stops that serve as starting points for the various loops the area offers. Some are very simple – just a makeshift stop with a small car park. Others even offer running water and toilets. Everything is set up very simply but functionally.
Sand, rocks and complete dryness
We pick one of the smaller walking loops and set off on foot into the lunar landscape toward a nearby hill. The route is well marked, but in places it leads through sand which we sink into considerably. Good footwear would definitely be useful here.
We reach the summit after about 30 minutes of walking. The reward is a beautiful view of the surrounding landscape full of dunes, rocks and emptiness. The sand dunes alternate with erosion-shaped slopes and rocks that formed over thousands of years by the action of wind and salt. Some dunes reminded us of the Sahara in appearance – fine sand, sharp lines and absolute emptiness around.
It should be said, however, that we are probably here at a less ideal time – it is noon and the sun is mercilessly pounding down on us. Without sunscreen, sunglasses and enough water I wouldn’t even try it here – the sun is really relentless in this environment.
The air is extremely dry, temperatures high and there is practically nowhere to hide from the strong sun. Therefore movement outside the car should not be underestimated and you should prepare well for it.
Life on the edge of survival
The only form of life we recorded in this area was a small green shrub, about the size of a football. In an environment where it almost never rains and the soil is saturated with salt, its mere existence seems like a small miracle.
Rock formations and imagination
Although the whole area is full of strange shapes, some of them stick in your memory more than others. One of the last rock formations we visited strikingly reminded us of the head of a Tyrannosaurus rex. It is a well-known formation called Tres Marías, which is one of the valley’s iconic spots and often appears in photographs from the area.
Into the forbidden part
At the end we drive to the end of the official road. Although the road continues further, there is a metal barrier across it. According to the map the road could lead us back to the main road to San Pedro de Atacama.
Nearby two young Dutch people have a camper parked. We ask them if they have any idea whether this road is passable. They tersely answer that we should try and see. So we try it.
We move the barrier and continue. At first the road is in good condition and doesn’t differ from the one we have been on so far. After about a kilometer it suddenly turns sharply and approaches the main road by a steep descent. I wouldn’t recommend trying to get here without a 4×4 off-road vehicle.
And even if you tried, you’d find the same as we did. At the very end there is an artificial embankment that even our car had no chance of getting over. Although we have the main road literally in sight, we must turn around and return via the standard route to the official entrance to Valle de la Luna.
We tried. It didn’t work out. That’s part of exploring.
Conclusion
Valle de la Luna represented a clear contrast to our previous visit to Laguna Chaxa. While the lagoon felt calm and pleasant, Valle de la Luna is about roughness, dryness and a inhospitable yet interesting landscape. Initially we regarded it more as a short stop on the way, but it gradually became clear that it’s a place that deserves more time and attention.
This part of the day showed us a completely different character of the Atacama – a land without shade, with minimal life, but a striking visual experience. If you are ever in San Pedro de Atacama, definitely stop here.