On our way to Croatia, just before boarding the ferry to the island of Dugi Otok, we treated ourselves to a short morning stop at one of the most famous natural sites in Croatia’s interior. Our destination was the source of the Cetina River, specifically the iconic Veliko vrilo – a place that from a bird’s-eye view looks more like a gateway into the earth than a typical river spring.
Morning calm in the village of Cetina
We parked right by the spring, in a small car park in the village of Cetina. It was early morning and the whole place still breathed calm. The surroundings were quiet, without crowds or noise, exactly how we imagine such stops.
An older lady, probably a tourist, was just leaving the car park. She gestured and said something to us quickly. I only caught a fragment of the sentence – something like „Zwei hunde…“. At that moment we didn’t attach much importance to it.
An unexpected encounter
We take Iba out of the car; he’s still full of energy and curiosity after the journey. He leaps from the travel crate on the back seats straight into a completely new environment. He immediately starts to thoroughly sniff everything around him.
And then it happened! Out of nowhere two large dogs ran up to us. We didn’t spot their owner anywhere. One female and one male. We tried not to escalate the situation unnecessarily and let a natural interaction take place between the dogs.
Unfortunately, it didn’t even take five seconds before Ibo attempted to approach the female. The male, probably her partner, reacted immediately – with a quick and precise bite to Ibo’s neck.
Everything happened in a split second. It was immediately clear who the „boss“ was among the dogs. Fortunately Ibo lowered his head and the situation calmed down immediately. The pack went on its way and so did we.
Only upon a calmer inspection did we notice small wounds on the back of Ibo’s neck. Fortunately they were only superficial injuries and the situation did not end more seriously.
At that moment it finally dawned on us what the lady at the car park had been trying to hint. „Zwei hunde…“ was not a casual remark, but a very specific warning.
The Veliko vrilo spring
The lake itself, which forms the source of the Cetina River, is clearly visible from the car park and in no more than five minutes we found ourselves at its shore via a clearly marked and maintained path. Apart from the lake, the site is dominated by a small Orthodox church, Crkva Vaznesenja Gospodnjeg, built right above the lake’s shore. A path runs almost around the whole perimeter of the lake and Ibo was able to be properly walked here without any problems. Although it was still morning, the air temperature was pleasant and the sun’s rays gradually warmed us. That probably convinced Iba as well that it was a good time to jump into the water, and he did so as part of his walk. We ourselves did not find the courage to bathe, but Ibo solved it for us without hesitation. Of course, right after bathing he enthusiastically rolled in the surrounding grass and dust. Pure joy. We’re not even at our destination yet and already we have a dog that’s dirty and bitten.
I couldn’t resist the opportunity to photograph this interesting place with a drone. After all, it is from a bird’s-eye perspective that this place reveals its true beauty. The spring from above plays with different colors and looks almost like a painted picture. After a short break we get back into the car and our journey continues inland towards the port in the city of Zadar.
Zwei Hunde!
Veliko vrilo is a beautiful and, above all, unusual place that deserves a visit. But this experience reminded us that even during a short stop, early in the morning and in an apparently calm environment, it’s good to stay alert – especially if you’re traveling with a dog. In any case, this place is suitable for walking a dog. Since it is a fairly popular spot, however, you can expect not to be alone here during normal daytime hours.
Ibo came away from this place with only a small wound, which didn’t complicate our holiday at all, and we left with a valuable lesson. And now we know that when someone calls out „Zwei hunde!“, we will certainly be on alert much sooner.
Facts about the spring and the Cetina River
Veliko vrilo is the most famous and the most abundant source of the Cetina River. It originates in the typical karst landscape of the Dinaric Alps and, due to its depth and clarity, is among the most photogenic springs in Croatia. The exact depth of the lake is not entirely clear, but estimates speak of more than 100 meters, making it one of the deepest karst springs in the country.
From there the Cetina River continues for about 105 kilometers and ends in the Adriatic Sea near the town of Omiš. Along its course it forms canyons, waterfalls and reservoirs and is also known as one of the centers of adrenaline activities in Croatia, especially rafting and canyoning.