How many cenotes are there on the Yucatán Peninsula? No one knows the exact number. Estimates say more than six thousand. Some are large tourist attractions with parking lots full of buses. Others are small, almost inconspicuous spots hidden just a few minutes from the main road. I discovered one such cenote during our stay in Playa del Carmen.
The Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico is known for thousands of cenotes — natural karst lakes formed by the collapse of limestone above underground caves. For the ancient Maya these places were sacred and also one of the main sources of drinking water. Today they are among the most sought-after natural attractions of the Riviera Maya region.
During our visit to Mexico we were based in Playa del Carmen. One afternoon I decided to take a short trip to a lesser-known spot called Cenote Ojo de Agua.
Unlike many of the well-known cenotes in the area, I had no great expectations for this place. I was more attracted by its proximity – the cenote was just a short distance from where we were staying.
How to get to the cenote
When leaving Playa del Carmen northwest on highway 305D, there is a right turn to the cenote just after the toll booth. However, not wanting to pay the toll for such a short stretch, I chose a different route. I turned off the main road before the toll and threaded my way through smaller side streets on the edge of town until I reached the destination.
It should be said that this road – often unpaved – also revealed the less attractive parts of the town. Outlying neighborhoods full of trash contrast with Playa del Carmen’s tourist center. Even so, the whole route-finding took me only about 15 minutes from our accommodation. When looking for the place, rely more on a map or GPS than on local signage.
An inconspicuous spot hidden off the main road
At the end of the access road there is a small parking area. Immediately upon arrival I was greeted by the local landowner. He explained that there is an entrance fee and that the price includes everything the place offers – not only access to the cenote itself but also use of a small relaxation area with loungers and toilets.
Cenote Ojo de Agua is an open cenote. Unlike cave cenotes that hide in underground spaces, the water surface here is completely open and surrounded by greenery. This creates a pleasant atmosphere and makes the spot suitable for families with children.
The whole area felt very simple. There was nothing luxurious or overly touristy. Quite the opposite – the place felt modest, clean, and surprisingly cozy. It had more of a family atmosphere.
Swimming in the cenote
Access to the water is arranged rather comfortably. Wooden steps lead to the surface and end in a larger wooden platform right above the water.
For the more daring there is also a small jetty from which you can jump directly into the cenote. I personally didn’t use this option – the height seemed quite considerable to me – but it’s possible that occasionally braver visitors try it.
The water in the cenote was pleasantly cool and very refreshing after a hot day on the coast. In much of the cenote the water is fairly deep, so it’s good to know how to swim. For added security you can also bring something to keep you afloat, such as a snorkeling vest or another simple aid.
The surroundings are full of greenery and trees that provide plenty of shade. Thanks to that, the temperature here is noticeably more pleasant than on the nearby city beaches.
Besides me, two families with children were spending time here. However, the place offers enough space, so we didn’t disturb each other.
A peaceful alternative to tourist cenotes
In the Playa del Carmen area there are many well-known cenotes that are often full of tourists. Cenote Ojo de Agua, however, feels more like a small local spot where people come for a few hours of relaxation.
I spent about an hour here, but I can easily imagine staying much longer. Just lie down in the shade, swim in the cool water, and slow down the pace of the typical tourist program for a while.
Sometimes it’s these inconspicuous places that surprise you the most.
Practical tips before visiting
If you decide to visit the cenote, it’s worth bringing a few basic items. Swimsuit, towel and possibly a beach towel for the local loungers will certainly come in handy. A simple snorkeling kit can also be a good choice – the water is clear and with calm swimming you can nicely observe the underwater world.
Since the cenote surroundings offer plenty of shade and vegetation, mosquito repellent might not be a bad idea, especially if you plan to stay longer.