Vošac (1421 m) is one of the most accessible peaks in the range above Makarska, yet in summer it can be brutally demanding – especially if you’re hiking with a dog. It’s one of the few clearly recognisable summits you notice immediately when you look at Biokovo from Makarska’s beaches. Its silhouette stands apart, as if rising straight above the town.
We chose the route from the hamlet of Kotišina above Makarska and returned down to the village of Makar. We set off before dawn, still in the dark. I’ve got a headlamp; Ibo relies on his canine “night vision”. In summer the daytime heat makes hikes like this extreme; without an early start, it wouldn’t make sense.
Starting point: Kotišina above Makarska
From Kotišina the path climbs steeply almost straight away. The first metres zigzag over rocky ground. There’s no gentle warm-up – the gradient tests you from the start.
Before sunrise a local chamois greets us on the trail. I spot it first – standing a few dozen metres above us, motionless, as if quietly sizing us up. In the half-light it feels almost symbolic, a guardian of the mountain. By the time Ibo notices, it’s long gone among the rocks.
We keep climbing relentlessly up to roughly 750 m a.s.l. The trail is well marked and easy to follow, but physically intense. Only around this height does the slope ease for the first time and we enter a more wooded section.
This is where my personal battle begins – spider webs. An early start means we’re first on the trail. Webs stretch across the path and end up on my face again and again. After a while I grab a branch and hold it out in front of me. Not elegant, but it works.
Dawn breaks at these elevations. Light slowly washes over Biokovo’s slopes and the sea views open up. We take a brief moment to soak it in, then push on – we want to beat the midday heat, so we don’t linger.
Climbing onto the Biokovo plateau
From 750 m we continue up to around 1300 m. The gradient kicks up again, with some very steep pitches. The forest thins and we reach the Biokovo high plateau.
Here the trail no longer climbs as sharply; it traverses, skirting gentle knolls towards the Štrbina saddle. The terrain is open, mostly grassy. We leave Biokovo’s shade for good, and for the rest of the day the sun is more or less relentless.
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Water management
I packed a little over three litres of water for the two of us. At every break I offer Ibo a bowl, but he mostly refuses. I notice he drinks better when I let him sip straight from my CamelBak hose. It works great, but there’s a catch: big losses. Some spills, some ends up on Ibo, some on the ground. That’s when it dawns on me: what I thought was plenty of water may not be enough.
From the Štrbina saddle off-trail to the summit
From Štrbina we leave the marked route and head straight for Vošac. The summit is in sight, but the sun is already strong and the slope steepens again. I know we still have a long way back, and that the temperature will only rise as we descend.
To save Ibo’s energy, I pick him up and cover the last few metres with him in my arms. I like to think he appreciated the gesture. A few minutes later we’re on the summit.
Summit of Vošac (1421 m)
The top is broad, and there’s a mountain hut called Planinarski dom ‘Toni Roso’. The views are exactly what you’d expect from Biokovo – the Makarska Riviera below, the sea and islands on the horizon. Brač dominates the view. In the other direction you can make out Sveti Jure with the transmitter on its summit, the highest peak of the range.
I try sending up the drone, but after a few minutes a sleepy hiker steps out of the hut and politely asks me not to buzz around – people are still sleeping. Fair enough. By starting so early, we’ve arrived at a time when most are still in bed. I land the drone and we get ready to head down.
Descent to the village of Makar: the shortest option
I check the map and weigh up the situation – in this heat it makes sense to choose the quickest way back to civilisation. From the Štrbina saddle we therefore drop straight down to the village of Makar.
Even though it’s the shortest variant, the descent still takes around two hours. Somewhere halfway down we run out of water for good.
The next hour is tough. We descend in extreme heat with no water. There’s nowhere to refill. We step across dry streambeds now and then, but it’s so parched that looking for water would be pointless.
Part of the route runs through forest, giving us at least some shade. The final section is open again and the sun is unforgiving. To my surprise, Ibo handles the descent well even in these conditions. Still, I start to feel sorry for him and run through options for finding water. But a glance around says it’s close to impossible.
Water only in Makar
Relief finally comes in the village of Makar. By the little church I find a hose. I fill Ibo’s bowl. He drinks and drinks and drinks. He can’t stop.
That’s when it hits me: just as I was struggling with the lack of water, Ibo was clearly suffering too, even if he never showed it. I call Iva and arrange a lift. A moment later she’s with us. We climb into the blissfully cool car and head for the apartment. I go straight to the pool; Ibo heads for a pleasantly air-conditioned room.
Practical recommendations for hiking to Vošac with a dog
Water is absolutely key. There’s no reliable source on the route, especially in summer. Carry more than you think is already too much.
An early start isn’t just a recommendation; it’s a necessity. After 9–10 a.m., temperatures soar.
The route is well marked and technically straightforward, but physically taxing. The steep climb from Kotišina and the open, shadeless sections drain energy fast.
If you’re hiking with a dog, be realistic about its fitness, heat tolerance, and your own ability to carry it if needed. I strongly recommend a hiking harness. Smaller breeds may struggle on the steeper parts and will likely need your help. During our hike we basically met no one – the trail was ours alone. A leash wasn’t necessary for the whole outing.
Vošac is a beautiful lookout with fantastic panoramas. But in summer it’s not a “light morning stroll”. For us it was a powerful experience – and a hard lesson in planning our water.
Key facts about the hike
- Total distance: 11.8 km
- Duration: around 6–7 hours (including breaks)
- Elevation gain: approx. 1200 m
- Difficulty: high (long, steep climbs, minimal shade)
- Dog-friendly: yes, but only for a well-conditioned dog and with ample water
- Starting point: Kotišina above Makarska
- End of descent: the village of Makar
- Water on the route: no reliable source