Our journey through Chilean landscapes is gradually entering its second half and, after crossing the Andes, we reach the Pacific Ocean — specifically the port town of Mejillones, just a short distance north of Antofagasta. The town itself seems unassuming, but a look toward the ocean makes it clear that the main attraction here is the massive bulk of the Península de Mejillones, rising straight from the sea. It dominates the horizon and constantly draws attention. After just a few hours in town it was clear that a trip to this peninsula was only a matter of time.
Trip to the peninsula
We set off for the peninsula by car directly from Mejillones. The road is paved all the way, but it is quite narrow and in places really steep and winding. No wonder — it leads just below the local summit Morro Mejillones, which rises above the surrounding ocean to a height of 751 meters.
Right at its summit there are military and navigational installations, including radars and a lighthouse, which indicate the strategic importance of this place. During the drive new views constantly open up before us — on one side the dry, inhospitable Atacama Desert, on the other the endless Pacific Ocean. The contrast between these two worlds is extremely strong here and feels almost unreal. After a two-day crossing of the Andes we welcome it with open arms.
A strategic place with a military past
The Península de Mejillones is notable not only for its raw landscape but also for its significant natural value. The southern part of the peninsula is part of Morro Moreno National Park, which protects the unique ecosystem where the extremely dry Atacama Desert meets the ocean. Many species of birds, marine mammals and coastal fauna find refuge here, which gives the peninsula an important role in nature conservation.
Alongside its natural importance, the peninsula has always played a key strategic role. Its location allows control over sea routes along Chile’s northern coast, which became particularly significant in the 19th century during the war between Chile and Peru and Bolivia.
One of the most remarkable places on the peninsula is Mirador Punta Angamos, a viewpoint located at the end of the road that crosses the peninsula. In addition to impressive views, there are historic coastal guns here that still recall the peninsula’s military significance. While we read the information boards, the silence of the place is occasionally broken by an unidentifiable sound coming from the nearby cliffs. Despite our best efforts we cannot determine the origin of these sounds.
Finally a beach
From the viewpoint we descend a steep road to the nearby Punta de Cuartel beach. The descent to the sea is an experience in itself — the dry, rocky landscape gradually changes and the ocean draws closer with every meter. The closer the road gets to the ocean, the steeper it becomes. Finally a very steep section leads directly onto the beach.
Punta de Cuartel beach has a completely different character than the beaches we had known so far. It’s not a tourist spot but rather a place where locals come for picnics and quiet afternoons.
The ocean here is an incredible green, which in contrast with the surrounding desert landscape looks almost unreal. But the biggest experience was something entirely different. While swimming in the ocean Iva noticed a creature swimming right along the beach. Not a small fish, not a dolphin, but a sea lion (often incorrectly called a walrus). I didn’t hesitate, put on my diving mask and headed after the creature in the hope of seeing it up close.
In the end the animal was shyer than I expected and had no problem avoiding me in the water, quickly swimming off to a safe distance. The encounter therefore didn’t quite happen, but thanks to its presence we finally understood what sounds we had heard at the viewpoint. They were the vocalizations of this relatively exotic creature to us. Seeing it in the wild ultimately became the highlight of the day.
We ended up spending the whole afternoon on the beach and even managed to get a bit of a tan. And although the water was rather cool, we swam in it several times.
Conclusion
The Península de Mejillones is exactly the kind of place you choose by chance and only realize once you’re there that you are standing on land with deep historical and military significance, an important role in nature conservation, and at the same time a place that links the iconic Atacama Desert with the Pacific Ocean.
Everything mixes together here and it doesn’t spoil anything. On the contrary, it creates a unique and unforgettable atmosphere that we take away from this place.
As a bonus, the encounter with a sea lion remains in memory — a short, unexpected moment that symbolically closes the whole trip.