Most people imagine Hong Kong as an endless sea of skyscrapers, heavy traffic and bustling streets. Few realize, however, that just a few bus stops from the centre you can set out on a proper mountain hike with breathtaking views.
One of the most iconic peaks above the city is Lion Rock. During my summer stay in Hong Kong it became the goal of one of my hikes.
Ascent from Lion Rock Park
I set off on the route from the Lion Rock Park area. From the outset it’s clear it won’t be an entirely leisurely walk. Steep steps and a sharply rising path gradually lead me higher and higher.
After the initial climb I reach the ridge, a short distance from Kowloon Pass. From there the path continues up to the summit itself. I still have roughly 150 vertical metres to go.
The route first goes over a peak called Lion Head. Here the trail emerges from the dense forest and the first views of the city open up. The contrast between the green ridge and the dense urban development below is fascinating.
Via the nearby saddle I then make my way to Lion Rock.
Lion Rock summit
The summit itself is just a short distance from the main trail. Apart from me there are a few other people, but the atmosphere is calm.
At the summit there is a plaque with the inscription Lion Rock and the elevation. The views from this spot are priceless. You literally have a large part of the city in the palm of your hand. Skyscrapers, dense development, hills in the background—everything combines here into one dynamic scene.
I had good weather. It was very hot and humid the whole time, a typical Hong Kong summer. In the higher sections there was, however, a slight cooling and a pleasant breeze. And most importantly—the views were not shrouded in smog. Evidently I was just lucky.
Descent: longer than the ascent
While getting up was relatively simple and straightforward, the descent felt endless to me.
First I descend into the Garter Pass saddle. The trail again sinks into the forest and further views of the city no longer appear during this part of the route.
My route then leads to the Sze Tsz Au saddle, where I leave the ridge. A descent follows along the trail and then down endless steps back into the city to Fat Chong Temple.
Steps in Hong Kong can be merciless. After a summer ascent in heat and humidity the descent can really take a toll on the knees.
Practical information
To reach the trailhead and to return I used local public transport—buses in my case. The connections are reliable and the advantage of Hong Kong is that you can reach nature without a car.
The route is physically demanding mainly because of the steep ascent and the number of steps, but technically it is not complicated terrain. In the summer months you need to account for high humidity and temperatures.
Lion Rock is proof that Hong Kong is not just about concrete and skyscrapers. Simply turn your back to the city, climb a few hundred vertical metres and suddenly you find yourself above one of the most densely populated places in the world.