Our ascent to the highest peak of Paraguay doesn’t begin in the mountains, but on the roads. According to the maps we head to the trailhead – first along the highway from the capital Asunción, then along several main roads, later on secondary roads and finally on a rocky dirt track. Fortunately we rented an off-road pickup in Asunción. Without it the last section of the road would probably have stopped us, but this way we continue up to the place where a metal gate finally stops us.
Nothing is free
At the gate we run into an unexpected problem. The local guard asks us for proof of payment of the national park entrance fee. We quickly realize that we overlooked something. We don’t understand each other – neither linguistically nor situationally. We want to pay on the spot, but that evidently isn’t possible.
We don’t have mobile data in this area, so we can’t even use an online translator. The dialogue stalls and for a while it looks like we won’t be able to go on the hike at all. In the end, however, the guard comes up with a solution – he calls a colleague on the phone who speaks English.
We learn that the entrance fee must be paid online in advance. Since that’s not possible at the moment, negotiations begin. After a short discussion and explaining our situation, a compromise is reached – we can continue, but we must pay the fee afterwards on our return. Paraguayan improvisation and humanity win out in the end.
Journey through the jungle to the summit
Behind the gate a completely different world begins. We pass the local campsite and start the trail. The narrow path winds through dense subtropical vegetation, the air is humid and full of jungle sounds. The ascent itself is relatively easy at first, but as we climb the first more technical sections appear. The terrain is steep in places and especially slippery.
The humidity takes its toll and after a few minutes we’re sweating buckets. You would probably sweat just standing still here. In sections where the terrain is extremely steep, ropes are installed that greatly help with the ascent and later with the descent.
Just when it seems the trail is getting really extreme, the terrain levels out and the route begins to meander more or less along flat local vegetation. After a few meters we find a sign marking the summit. The summit of Cerro Tres Kandú is only 842 meters above sea level, but it still gave us a good workout.
However, it’s hard to tell whether you’re standing on the actual summit. The dense vegetation basically allows no views. According to the map, you need to continue along the path another 200 – 300 meters for views. We do so and reach an open clearing just a short distance from the summit.
From this spot views suddenly open up over the surrounding landscape – more or less the endless plain below us. It’s a paradoxical but exceptional sight. Here we find a very nice and spacious wooden viewpoint, benches and the remains of a structure, probably a transmitter.
We sit here for a while, I take drone shots, but time is pressing. A few more photos and we retrace our steps back to the car.
Conclusion
The ascent of Cerro Tres Kandú is not a classic mountain hike, but as a travel experience and as the symbolic “conquest” of Paraguay’s highest point it is definitely worth it – and it’s not entirely free, either.
Practical tips
- Park entrance fee should be paid online in advance. According to available information it should be possible to pay in cash as well, but we couldn’t do so on site.
- An off-road vehicle is a big advantage, especially after rain. In dry conditions you will probably reach the parking area with a regular car as well.
- Expect high humidity, heat and lots of insects, which can be quite annoying in places.
- Sturdy footwear, plenty of water and insect repellent are an absolute necessity.
Cerro Tres Kandú – brief overview
- Elevation: 842 m above sea level (the highest point of Paraguay)
- Elevation gain: approximately 565 meters
- Route length: approx. 5 km (there and back)
- Difficulty: moderately difficult hike, at times steep and slippery
- Terrain type: forest and jungle trails, in places secured with ropes